A visit to Jacques Cartier’s country home near Saint Malo

Well, I knew I wanted a guided tour of Cartier’s home. I showed up at 10 am Thursday to the Quebec House, a 5-minute walk from my hotel. Several women were near the door but they explained to me that this house was closed. I insisted that there was a guided visit scheduled for 10. I got out my brochure even. They looked at it and patiently explained that Cartier’s country home was where the tour would take place. I would need to take a bus.

So, Friday morning I set out bright and early! I had to take bus #3 to Rothéneuf for 2 Euros. 35 minutes later I was deposited in the center of a little village. I found a tabac/bar and ordered in cafe & croissant and was able to read a local newspaper before spotting these women and fellow walkers.

I had to walk another good half mile to find the deserted old farm. It was all locked up. I walked to the back and found a large empty parking lot. At about 10 till ten, a car pulled up with a couple with two children. They had reservations for a tour; I did not. But finally the friendly guide met us in and assured me all was fine because it was quiet today-not like the summer season.

Finally we were inside the stone walls in the courtyard of this simple country manor. Our guide explained that when Jacques Cartier bought this small farm, only 1/3 of what you see above was present. He added the central part, and the third part (on the far right) was added much later and serves as an entrance to the visit. This building still has no water and no heat save a space heater for the guide in that entrance room.

She explained the importance of that large compass as well as an astrolabe and hourglass timer (of various lengths of time) and that coil of rope with a bobber and regular markers. So much work went into navigating where one wanted to go! I was impressed and humbled at the knowledge they possessed and used. And the crew was taking measurements of direction and speed every hour-it seemed. The crew had to be divided into teams to rest and then be on duty again because she made the point-they were traveling 24/7. They did not take breaks so the crew could sleep at night.

Our guide was wonderful. She explained where the furniture came from and even where the stones for this dining room floor originated: In Burgundy. They were brought here via boats down river and then across the Mediterranean and finally up the coast of western France. The family was super attentive! Parents and kids! The little girl had no socks and sandals with bare legs. I was getting cold. I was getting tired of all the info in French so fast. I was wondering if there would be a bathroom anywhere on the site or would I have to walk another good half mile back to town. And I couldn’t act like I wasn’t interested!

The tour finally officially ended at about noon. After asking about and using the modern toilets – in another stone building that was built after Cartier died. I rejoined the group to watch our second film. It was all about other French explorers that came after Cartier. The film was projected on a relief of North America, showing where so many French explorers and trappers and voyagers travelled. Des Moines appeared on that map and I was able to share that I lived there!

To wrap up this too long post, I want to share the most interesting things I learned from this tour. Cartier grew up in Saint Malo and worked on boats from an early age. He became so skilled that he became a master pilot, one who went out to meet arriving ships and guided them safely into the Saint Malo port. By the age of 30, he was a respected captain who had travelled far. He married well, and was able to meet King Francois 1 at Mont Saint Michel when the king wanted to fund an exploration to North America to find resources and another sea route to China. Cartier got the job and made three voyages. He brought back what he thought were precious stones, but they were nothing that France didn’t already possess. Francois even laughed at him and considered his efforts unsuccessful. But, we all know that they were not. His name is on many a hotel & business and he is probably St Malo’s most famous citizen. He’s even more famous in Canada! His explorations did not make him rich, though he was still respected in St Malo. The town was crowded and dirty at that time, so if people could, they would live elsewhere in the summers. He lived either in Saint Malo or his country home until his death in 1557.